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Twill

What is twill fabric?

Twill is a woven fabric with a clear diagonal rib structure. This diagonal line is created by the way the warp and weft yarns pass over and under each other. The construction makes twill more stable and often more durable than many simple plain-weave fabrics.

Twill is used for garments and interior textiles that need structure, body and reliable wear performance. Depending on fibre, yarn thickness and finish, it can feel firm, soft, smooth or slightly brushed.

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Specifications

  • Construction Woven fabric in twill weave with a diagonal rib structure
  • Composition Commonly cotton, polyester, viscose, wool, elastane or blends
  • Fabric weight Commonly around 180 to 350 g/m², depending on yarn thickness, density and finish
  • Stretchability Usually little to no stretch, unless elastane is added
  • Abbreviations CO = cotton, PES = polyester, CV or VI = viscose, WO = wool, EL = elastane

Properties of the fabric

Twill fabric is made with a twill weave, where the interlacing points shift in each row. This creates the characteristic diagonal wale on the surface. The weave also gives the fabric good drape and strength compared with many flat plain weaves.

Twill can be made from cotton, polyester, viscose, wool or blends, sometimes with elastane for extra comfort. Cotton twill is often firm and natural, while polyester blends can improve crease recovery and easy care. Stretch twill is useful for fitted garments that need both structure and movement.

Applications

  • Trousers and chinos.
  • Jackets and overshirts.
  • Skirts with structure.
  • Workwear trousers.
  • Uniform shirts and trousers.
  • Cushion covers and interior panels.

Care instructions

  • Wash twill usually at 30°C or 40°C, depending on composition, colour and finish.
  • Wash dark or dyed twill inside out to help protect the colour.
  • Air drying is preferred to reduce shrinkage, creasing and surface wear.
  • Iron at low to medium temperature, depending on fibre content.
  • Pre-wash twill before cutting when shrinkage could affect the final size.

Certificates

  • OEKO-TEX Standard 100 may be available depending on the specific article.

Practical tip

Check the direction of the diagonal twill line before cutting. Keeping the wale direction consistent across pattern pieces gives the finished garment a cleaner and more uniform look.

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