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Gabardine

What is gabardine fabric?

Gabardine is a tightly woven twill fabric with a fine diagonal rib on the surface. The fabric is known for its smooth appearance, firm structure and good shape retention. Because of the dense weave, gabardine often feels more compact and refined than many standard twill fabrics.

Gabardine is mainly used for garments that need structure, durability and a clean finish. Depending on the fibre content and weight, it can be suitable for trousers, skirts, blazers, uniforms and outerwear.

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Specifications

  • Construction Woven fabric, twill structure with visible diagonal ribs
  • Composition 100% wool, 100% polyester, or wool/polyester blend
  • Fabric weight Within the Nooteboom Textiles range, we mainly see Georgette between 85-255 g/m²
  • Stretch No stretch, woven fabric
  • Abbreviations WO = wool, PES = polyester
  • Appearance Sleek, formal, visible diagonal rib structure

What are the properties of Georgette?

Georgette is traditionally produced with highly twisted yarns in both warp and weft, creating its characteristic crêpe texture. The grainy surface can be strengthened further through a crêpe or granite weave. Compared with smoother lightweight woven fabrics, Georgette has more surface grip and visual texture. Its fine construction provides movement and drape, while the yarn twist gives the fabric a slightly firmer character than chiffon.

How does Georgette feel?

Georgette feels lightweight, slightly dry and noticeably grainy rather than completely smooth. The surface has a fine crêpe texture that gives the fabric more tactile character than chiffon.

Despite this texture, Georgette still drapes fluidly and moves easily. Polyester qualities generally have a consistent surface and retain the characteristic dry, softly textured hand feel.

Applications

  • Trousers: the stable construction works well for tailored and straight-leg styles.
  • Blazers: Gabardine provides enough body for defined seams and structured shapes.
  • Skirts: suitable for straight, A-line and other structured skirt designs.
  • Dresses: softer qualities can be used for dresses that require controlled drape and shape.
  • Jackets: denser qualities are suitable for lightweight structured outer layers.
  • Uniforms and workwear: Gabardine is often used where a neat appearance and stable woven construction are required.

Wash Instructions

  • Washing temperature: follow the article-specific care label, as polyester, viscose and wool blends can require different washing temperatures.
  • Drying advice: air drying is generally preferred to help preserve the shape and surface.
  • Ironing instructions: iron on the reverse side at low to medium temperature according to the fibre composition.
  • Dry cleaning: wool-rich or specially finished qualities may require professional cleaning.
  • Special considerations: prewash washable qualities when dimensional change could affect the final garment size.

Other Information

  • Certifications: OEKO-TEX® STANDARD 100 is available on selected current qualities and should always be checked per article.
  • Surface: the diagonal twill line is an important visual characteristic and should run consistently across garment panels.
  • Water protection: Gabardine is not automatically waterproof or water-repellent, as these properties depend on the specific construction and any additional finish or coating.
  • Finishing: current qualities are available in plain colours as well as checked designs.

What Is the Difference Between Gabardine and Twill?

Gabardine is a type of twill fabric, while twill is the broader name for fabrics made with a diagonal weave structure. Gabardine is typically densely woven and has a fine, often relatively steep diagonal rib. Other twill fabrics can be lighter, coarser, softer or constructed with a different diagonal angle. This means that every Gabardine is a twill, but not every twill fabric is Gabardine.

Does Gabardine Stretch?

Gabardine is not defined as a stretch fabric and many qualities have little to no functional stretch. Some modern blends contain elastane, but elastane content alone does not determine how much a finished fabric stretches. The weave density, yarn construction and finishing also influence movement and recovery. Always check the stretch specification of the individual quality.

Is Gabardine Waterproof?

No, Gabardine is not inherently waterproof. Its dense twill construction can create a compact surface, but true water resistance or water repellency requires the relevant fabric construction, coating or finish. Some Gabardine qualities can therefore be suitable for rainwear, but this property must be verified for the specific article.

Is Gabardine Suitable for Tailored Clothing?

Yes, Gabardine is particularly well suited to tailored garments because its dense construction provides stability and helps maintain clean lines. Trousers, blazers, skirts and uniforms can benefit from this controlled structure. The exact amount of drape and firmness depends on composition and weight.

Practical Tip

Gabardine has a front and back side that can look similar, but the diagonal ribs run in a specific direction. Pay attention to the direction when laying out the pattern pieces for a consistent final result.

FAQ

What is Gabardine made from?
Gabardine can be made from polyester, wool and various fibre blends, including qualities with viscose or elastane.
Is Gabardine woven or knitted?
Gabardine is a woven fabric made with a twill construction.
Why does Gabardine have diagonal lines?
The diagonal ribs are created by the way the warp and weft yarns interlace in the twill weave.
Does Gabardine wrinkle easily?
Its dense construction can help it retain a clean appearance, but crease behaviour still depends on fibre composition and finishing.
Can Gabardine be used for raincoats?
Yes, but only when the specific quality provides suitable water-resistant or water-repellent performance.
What is Gabardine commonly used for?
Gabardine is commonly used for trousers, blazers, skirts, dresses, jackets, uniforms and other structured garments.

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Written by

Dave Van der Steen Nooteboom Textiles

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