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Gabardine

What is gabardine fabric?

Gabardine is a tightly woven twill fabric with a fine diagonal rib on the surface. The fabric is known for its smooth appearance, firm structure and good shape retention. Because of the dense weave, gabardine often feels more compact and refined than many standard twill fabrics.

Gabardine is mainly used for garments that need structure, durability and a clean finish. Depending on the fibre content and weight, it can be suitable for trousers, skirts, blazers, uniforms and outerwear.

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Specifications

  • Construction Woven fabric, twill structure with visible diagonal ribs
  • Composition 100% wool, 100% polyester, or wool/polyester blend
  • Fabric weight Medium to heavy: 200–350 g/m²
  • Stretch No stretch, woven fabric
  • Abbreviations WO = wool, PES = polyester
  • Appearance Sleek, formal, visible diagonal rib structure

Properties of the fabric

Gabardine is usually woven in a steep twill weave with fine, tightly packed yarns. This gives the fabric its diagonal surface line and compact hand feel. The dense structure helps the fabric keep its shape and makes it suitable for tailored garments.

Gabardine can be made from cotton, polyester, wool, viscose or blends, sometimes with elastane for stretch. Polyester gabardine is often easy-care and shape-retaining, while wool gabardine has a more classic tailoring character. Stretch gabardine is useful for garments that need both structure and movement.

Applications

  • Suit trousers and suits
  • Jackets and coats
  • Skirts, such as A-line skirts and straight skirts
  • Uniforms and workwear
  • Raincoats, with coating

Care instructions

  • Wash gabardine usually at 30°C or 40°C, depending on fibre content and finish.
  • Wash inside out to help protect the surface and colour.
  • Pre-wash gabardine before cutting when shrinkage could affect the final size.
  • Air drying is preferred to reduce creasing, shrinkage and surface wear.
  • Iron on the reverse side at low to medium temperature, depending on composition..

Certifications

Wool gabardine may be available with RWS, Responsible Wool Standard, or Mulesing-Free certification. Polyester variants may be available with OEKO-TEX Standard 100.

Practical Tip

Gabardine has a front and back side that can look similar, but the diagonal ribs run in a specific direction. Pay attention to the direction when laying out the pattern pieces for a consistent final result.

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Written by

Dave Van der Steen Nooteboom Textiles

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